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FAMILY WILDLIFE ADVENTURES |
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News
THE SATURDAY TELEGRAPH - BRAZILIAN AMAZON: LOGGING VERSUS ECO-LODGESBrazil has just launched an international fund to combat the deforestation of the Amazon. Nigel Richardson reports from the state where more trees are being felled than anywhere else on earth.
JAGUAR ADVENTURE WITH NIGEL MARVENIn his latest TV series, maverick wildlife presenter Nigel Marven travels to Brazil’s Pantanal in search of the elusive Jaguar. Reef and Rainforest Tours staff joined Nigel Marven at the Jaguar Research Centre when he did most of his filming and shared many of his jaguar encounters. Jaguars are notoriously difficult to film in the wild and Nigel’s wonderful shots plays testament to the fact that this is probably the best place in the world to see these endearing big cats.
THE SATURDAY TELEGRAPH - JAGUARS IN BRAZIL: THE CREAM OF CATSA new tourism venture in Brazil, offering 'guaranteed sightings’ of the endangered jaguar, hopes to persuade the local people of the Pantanal that this luxuriantly liveried big cat is worth more alive than dead. Nigel Richardson set out on its trail with Reef and Rainforest.
THE SUNDAY TIMES - THE 2008 SUMMER 100Our new Brazil Tour has been picked by the Sunday Times as one of the 100 best trips 2008 has to offer: "Jaguars are notoriously elusive, but at the newly opened Jaguar Research Centre, in the teeming Pantanal in Brazil, you're virtually guaranteed to see them - in the first 80 days, there were 125 sightings. You should also look out for giant river otters, tapirs, caimans, coati-mondis, anacondas, pumas and giant anteaters."
THE INDEPENDENT NEWSPAPER - SWEET LIVING ON THE SAN BLAS ISLANDSIn February 2007 Danielle Demetriou travelled to the idyllic San Blas Islands in Panama, with Reef and Rainforest Tours. The San Blas archipelago is made up of nearly 400 tiny islands scattered along the Caribbean coast of Eastern Panama. As part of the Comarca de Kuna Yala, the archipelago is ruled by the fiercely independent Kuna Indians who carry on their traditions in crowded, bustling communities on 40 of the islands. Danielle’s subsequent article published in The Independent in March 2007 describes her stay on the islands with this colourful vibrant tribe, and her search for the key to their health and happiness – hot chocolate!
THE SUNDAY TIMES - GOING WILD IN THE PERUVIAN JUNGLEOne small part of the Peruvian jungle has more species of wildlife creeping and crawling around in it than anywhere else on the planet. William Gray and his brother, Simon embarked on a Reef and Rainforest adventure to Manu Biosphere Reserve to see some of this wildlife for themselves. This year, Nick Middleton travelled to Panama with Reef and Rainforest Tours in search of the Harpy Eagle. His subsequent article published in The Times tells of his journey into the deepest darkest Darien region to meet the Mogue Indians and begin his quest to spot the most powerful bird of prey on earth. THE DAILY TELEGRAPH - THE REAL MADAGASCARIn November 2004, Gill Charlton embarked on a Reef and Rainforest Tour in search of the lemurs of Madagascar. Besides many species of lemur, she also found friendly people, spectacular landscapes and extraordinary indigenous flora. Gill’s article, published in The Saturday Telegraph provides a detailed account of the unique places and wildlife she encountered in this special place. AT HOME MAGAZINE - 10 BEST FAMILY HOLIDAYSIt's not easy finding the ideal family holiday destination at the busiest and most expensive time of the year: half-term and summer holidays. But it can be done, says Joanna Symons, and Costa Rica features within her 10 choices. THE SUNDAY TIMES - THE 2007 SUMMER 100Our 'Africa’s Great Apes and Great Plains' tour of Rwanda and Tanzania has been picked as one of the planet’s best holidays by the Sunday Times: THE INDEPENDENT NEWSPAPER - GUYANA’S RAINFOREST – RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLEDuring a Reef and Rainforest Tour of Guyana, Sarah Barrell discovered noise pollution of a different kind; the ear-splitting screech of scarlet macaws, the whistle of the screaming piha bird and the rolling roar of the red howler monkey. In her article for The Independent, Sarah describes the sights and sounds encountered whilst trekking through Guyana’s rainforest. THE TIMES - DOM JOLY AND THE BIRDS OF COSTA RICA In December 2005, Dom Joly embarked on a Reef and Rainforest trip to Costa Rica in seach of adventure.
His subsequent article published in The Sunday Times provides a hilarious account of his own style of wildlife tour – a 50mph zipwire over the rainforest. View article THE SUNDAY TIMES - SPOT THE DIFFERENCEJeremy Lazell presents a wilder sort of family break for extraordinary Easter holidays: Every April, whale sharks shoal at the edge of a 2,000ft drop-off at the northern end of the Belize barrier reef, just 30 yards from the 15-acre island resort of South Water Caye, your base for one of the most spectacular sights on the snorkelling planet. And that’s just the main course: your starter is Chaa Creek, a magnificent jungle lodge on the banks of the Macal River, where optional extras include mountain-biking, riding, cave exploration and canoeing.
Ages: 10+ recommended Details: For four nights, B&B, at Chaa Creek and six nights, full-board, at South Water Caye, including flights with Continental, via Houston, and transfers. Contact Reef and Rainforest Tours (01803 866965, www.reefandrainforest.co.uk). View article THE INDEPENDENT NEWSPAPER - SAFARI SPECIALOur Madagascar tours recognised as a fresh way to observe some of the rarest beasts on the planet:
Madagascar for lemurs - Take the family on a wildlife tour of the island off Africa's east coast that inspired this summer's Dreamworks movie. Reef and Rainforest (01803 866965; www.reefandrainforest.co.uk) offers carefully researched Fabulous Family Fun trips combining jungle walks, lemur-spotting and stays on sunny tropical islands. These two-week tours offer the best of Madagascar, including a guided visit to the rainforests of Perinet and Mantadia, followed by a stay at Berenty, in the south, known for its ring-tailed lemurs and strange spiny forest. The trip concludes with a few days surrounded by palm trees and white sand beaches on the island of Nosy Be. View article THE TELEGRAPH - IN THE GARDEN OF EDENIn 2001 we organised a family adventure for Joan Symons and her family to Costa Rica where, after initial apprehension, they were won over by Costa Rica's diverse landscapes and abundant wildlife. Joan's article, published in The Daily Telegraph, tells of their adventures in one of our most popular family destinations. THE TELEGRAPH - SOMETHING LURKING IN THE LILIESThe immense, seasonally flooded flatlands of central Venezuela host an abundance of wildlife similar to that found in Brazil’s Pantanal. Mark Stratton’s Telegraph article following a Reef and Rainforest Tour to Venezuela tells of his encounters with the flora and fauna on safari on the rivers and marshes of Los Llanos. View article PAPUA NEW GUINEA - NO HEADHUNTERS ANY MOREWhich words spring to mind when you hear the name Papua New Guinea? Cannibals? Headhunters? All too often, Papua New Guinea is portrayed negatively by the press, and one tends not to hear about Papua New Guinea as a country – its wildlife, people and culture. In fact Papua New Guinea (PNG) is a truly unique destination where nature and culture unite to produce one of the most untouched and culturally diverse countries in the world. This heady mix makes PNG possibly the most exciting island destination on earth for travellers. In September, our consultant Claire Roughley travelled the great distance to PNG. What she discovered was a wonderful country with friendly people eager to share their culture and traditions, unspoilt landscapes, mountains, forests, reefs, rivers and the beautiful birds of paradise. PNG may not have the same level and variety of wildlife as some of our other destinations: however, thirty eight of the forty three known species of the lovely birds of paradise are found in PNG together with countless butterflies and over 2,000 species of orchid. Claire was lucky enough to see three birds of paradise during her trip, as well as the unusual cassowary - a large emu-like bird with a fearsome reputation. She also witnessed some flamboyant displays by the local tribesmen at village ‘sing-sings’.
Reef and Rainforest Tours are pleased to be able to offer you the chance to be one of the privileged few to explore this amazing country. Please call Claire on 01803 866965 for more details. COSTA RICA - IDEAL FOR FAMILIESAll the attributes which make Costa Rica such a special natural history destination for adults also make that Central American nation ideal for families looking for an active wildlife adventure that is carefree and fun. Many varied landscapes and habitats are found throughout that small, peaceful country at the heart of a narrow land bridge connecting the two Americas. Costa Rica also boasts two long, picturesque coastlines on both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, separated by forest-clad mountains, steaming active volcanoes and pristine river valleys. Although the European winter is the nominal dry season, there are many locations which can be visited from April to September for the Easter and Summer school holidays (you will want to avoid the rains in October and November). These include Tortuguero, the Caribbean coast, Arenal, Monteverde and the beaches of Guanacaste. TRINIDAD & TOBAGO - THE CARIBBEAN'S WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTSReef and Rainforest recently pioneered a programme combining Trinidad and Tobago with the South American country of Guyana but, as Jonathan Morris recently discovered, the two islands have much to offer in their own right.
Between March and September the wild and little-visited beaches of northern Trinidad experience an invasion of the reptilian kind as leatherback turtles arrive to breed in large numbers. One of the best places to see this is Grand Riviere, a small village backed by rainforest and benefiting from one of the best beaches in the area. Venturing out with a local ranger on a very starry June night, Jonathan saw around thirty females labouring up the beach to lay clutches of around 100 ping pong ball-sized eggs. The biggest turtle in the world, leatherbacks can grow up to 12 feet in length and the sight of these huge reptiles and their tiny hatchlings negotiating the beach and surf has to be one of the Caribbean’s great wildlife highlights. With a beautiful position overlooking a valley in the rainforested hills of Trinidad’s Northern Range, the Asa Wright Centre is one of the best-known wildlife lodges in the Caribbean. Originally an old plantation house, it was converted to a research and conservation station over fifty years ago. The property’s colonial history and charm are interwoven with wonderful tropical wildlife. There is an excellent network of trails to follow with one of the lodge’s naturalist guides but Jonathan found that a huge amount of wildlife could be seen whilst just sipping coffee on the veranda; hummingbirds drone at feeders above your head, brightly-coloured honeycreepers, tanagers and mot-mots feed on fruit left out by the staff and parrots and toucans call from the treetops. Slightly further afield are Dunston Cave, home to a community of extremely rare and nocturnal oilbirds, and Caroni Swamp where thousands of intensely coloured scarlet ibis come to roost giving a fantastic display of colour and noise at sunset. A short flight away, Tobago offers good beaches, coral reefs and the oldest rainforest reserve in the western hemisphere. In the north of the island is the fishing village of Speyside and the beautiful Bateaux Bay which has some exceptional snorkelling and diving. Just offshore is the island of Little Tobago with one of the Caribbean’s largest seabird colonies, home to thousands of frigatebirds, boobies, terns and red-billed tropic birds. The hills around Speyside offer some good walking and just around the coast is the sleepy village of Charlotteville where local fishermen can drop you at some lovely untouched white sand beaches. Whether taken in combination with Guyana or as a destination in their own right, the islands of Trinidad and Tobago make for a surprisingly diverse wildlife holiday and a good alternative to the mass tourism of the rest of the Caribbean. The lack of malaria also makes this an ideal destination for families. To discuss possible itineraries, please feel free to contact Jonathan at our office on 01803 866 965. BELIZE - NEW WILDERNESS LODGE IN THE MAYA MOUNTAINSWe are pleased to introduce a new wilderness option to our Belize programme for 2006. Las Cuevas Research Station and Explorers Lodge lies in the heart of the Maya Mountains National Park within the Chiquibul Forest Reserve. This is the largest protected area in Belize, totalling half a million hectares. The Maya forest is classified as lowland tropical broad-leafed rainforest and is home to more than 400 species of birds as well as 95 mammal, 45 reptile and 18 amphibian species. Some of the more endangered species seen by visitors to Las Cuevas include jaguar, ocelot, harpy eagle, Baird’s tapir, black howler monkey, river otter, various tree frogs, Morelet's crocodile and the endangered scarlet macaw. In addition to all the fauna, Las Cuevas is close to the major Maya site of Caracol, a ‘lost city’ in the jungle which in its heyday rivalled the more famous Tikal in Guatemala for regional supremacy. Reef and Rainforest’s Claire Roughley visited Las Cuevas in May 2005 to see the lodge for herself. The accommodation was basic, but it has a friendly atmosphere and superb location which more than compensated for that, and she left Belize knowing she had discovered something really special for our future adventurous Belize clients. As well as being available for tailor-made tours, Las Cuevas Explorers Lodge has been included in our Escorted Group Tour to Belize in May 2007. For further details, please call Claire on 01803 866965. IFAW - SHOCKING DISCOVERIES ON THE INTERNETIn August, the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) launched its report “Caught in the Web,” the result of a three-month investigation into wildlife products and live animals being traded illegally on the internet. This soaring and lucrative trade is driving the world's most endangered species – including turtles, tigers, apes and other primates – to the brink of extinction and causing untold suffering.
Shockingly, IFAW found more than 9,000 live animals and wildlife products for sale on the internet in just one week alone. The report made headlines around the world and the organisation hopes the publicity will encourage shoppers not to buy wildlife online. Furthermore, on hearing these shocking findings, Reef and Rainforest Tours has chosen to support IFAW in its work to protect endangered species by encouraging tourists not to buy holiday souvenirs made from wild animals. For more information on IFAW's campaigns please visit www.ifaw.org or alternatively www.caughtintheweb.co.uk. PERU - HIDDEN GEMS OF THE SOUTH WESTPeru has long been a favourite for Reef and Rainforest clients who have enjoyed the famous Inca citadel of Machu Picchu and the extensive Amazonian rainforest of Manu and beyond. However, in a recent recce trip to the south of the country, our senior consultant Jonathan Morris discovered some of the other highlights that make this South American country so special.
The journey began in Arequipa, a stunning Spanish colonial city built of white volcanic stone and ringed by volcanoes. Gaining altitude, the green river valleys quickly gave way to the high tundra-like landscape of the altiplano and the Aguada Blanca National Reserve, home to the vicuña, a beautiful and highly endangered relative of the alpaca and llama, found here in large numbers. Next came the Colca Canyon, the second deepest in the world and a magnificent landscape of farming terraces and small villages. The canyon is also home to the Andean condor and the vantage point of Cruz del Condor is one of the best places in the world to see these iconic birds. Jonathan was astounded to get within 20 feet of a juvenile as it soared in a thermal past the cliff face but was brought down to earth when told that twelve adults were seen at a similar distance the day before. Up the Pacific coast from Arequipa is a vast desert area of huge sand dunes, oases and containing the Nazca Lines – a network of geometrical shapes covering a huge area. Only by flying over can you see that the lines actually make up an astonishing series of patterns and forms including a condor, spider and wonderful hummingbird. Quite why these ancient people (who pre-date the Incas) made such spectacular shapes only viewable from the air is still a mystery, but one of the drawings resembles an astronaut thereby giving a very tantalising clue for extra-terrestrial theorists. Further up the coast are the Paracas Peninsula and Ballestas Islands, a marine reserve with staggering numbers of seabirds and a huge breeding population of sea lions. The islands are often called the poor man’s Galapagos, and with the amount of marine life and a couple of penguins for good measure it was certainly easy to see why.If the above captures your imagination, please give Jonathan a call on 01803 866965. EXCITING DISCOVERIES - NEW CREATURES GREAT BUT SMALLDespite years of scientific work, new species are still being discovered. It has been an exciting time recently for new ‘miniature’ species to be found – although they have not always been small. It’s all a matter of scale.
In the far north-east of Borneo, scientists from the Sabah Wildlife Department,WWF and Columbia University have discovered through DNA analysis of mucous on elephant dung that the mild-tempered and smaller pygmy elephants endemic to the region are in fact a separate sub-species to their mainland cousins. Apart from their diminutive stature, the pygmy elephants are more tame, have relatively longer tails, larger ears and straighter tusks compared with the mainland Asian and Sumatran elephants, from which they have been isolated for around 300,000 years. Sadly fewer than 1500 pygmy elephants are thought to remain in the wild, threatened as they are by illegal snares and loss of habitat to commercial plantations. At least 362 new species have been discovered on Borneo in the last decade making the island one of the most important regions of biodiversity in the world. Other new exciting discoveries have also been found far from Borneo, across the Indian Ocean on another island renowned for its natural oddities – Madagascar, 250 miles from the east coast of Africa. Madagascar is home to the last living link to ancient primates, or pro-simians – the line that evolved into humans. Lemurs survived there due to their isolation from the African mainland where the more advanced monkeys and apes led to their mainland demise. Madagascar is a place of great excitement to scientists and nature-lovers alike. None of the primates of Madagascar is found anywhere else on Earth, and new discoveries are still being made. Just this year, researchers studying the smallest family of primates on earth, the mouse lemurs, have found two new species. Scientists from the German Primate Centre and University of Göttingen discovered the grey squirrel-sized (in mouse lemur terms, that’s huge) Northern Giant Mouse Lemur. It has been given the scientific name, Mirza zaza. Zaza translates as ‘child’ in Malagasy, and it is hoped the name will remind the children of Madagascar of their responsibility to conserve the unique wildlife of the country for future generations. The second discovery was the tiny Goodman’s mouse lemur, Microcebus lehilahytsara, by Robert Zingg and Samuel Führer of Zürich Zoo. Barely bigger than a mouse, this ‘pocket primate’ was named after Steve Goodman of WWF for his dedication to field research into the flora and fauna of Madagascar. These two new species bring the number of known lemur species to 49. Surprisingly, Goodman’s mouse lemur was found not in some remote, barely accessible jungle, but in the extensively studied forest of Andasibe (aka Perinet or Analamazaotra). It proves we are a far cry from the final species count, and there is still much to learn from this very special island. As in Borneo, the lemurs and other unique wildlife of Madagascar are threatened by habitat destruction. Humans have only inhabited the island for the last 2000 years, and already one third of all known lemur species are extinct and ninety per cent of the original forest has been destroyed by the slash and burn cultivation technique used. Small-scale, natural history-oriented tourism carried out in a responsible manner can make a positive difference in countries such as these. The revenue it brings offers an incentive to governments and local people to preserve their wilderness areas, to educate themselves about their environment and to place value on using natural resources in a sustainable manner. We use locally-owned lodges and local guides wherever and whenever possible and it is heartening to see the infectious pride that develops once their natural heritage is appreciated fully. On your next journey with Reef and Rainforest Tours, you can travel in the knowledge that you are helping to preserve the incredible yet fragile surroundings in which you are immersed, and also remember to keep your eyes peeled for new species, great and small, that are even now waiting to be discovered. THE SEYCHELLES - COUSINE ISLAND: A FABULOUS NATURAL RETREATCousin Island, off Praslin in the Seychelles, is a famous nature reserve once owned by the Cadbury family and now run by conservationists and much visited by nature-loving travellers to those wonderful Indian Ocean islands. It is home to many rare and unusual species, but being a strict reserve, has no accommodation available and so visitors can only stay for a short time – often too short to appreciate fully the many marvels of nature it contains.
However, its nearby ‘relative’, Cousine Island, is blessed with many of the same species as Cousin, including the rare Seychelles magpie robin, the Seychelles warbler, the brown noddy, the bronze gecko, Wright’s skink and the wedge-tail and Audubon shearwaters. Huge numbers of fairy terns, lesser noddys and white-tailed tropicbirds circle the skies above the island, and at night, large fruit bats return to roost. The privately-owned natural paradise is also home to many free - roaming Aldabra giant tortoises, some nearly one hundred years old and the youngest only five, and large millipedes can be spotted crawling up tree trunks lest they dry out in the sun. The island is one of the few in the world which has never had rats, so remains true to its origins. Large, strangely eroded granite boulders give the island a magical look, and the huge white-sand beach is lined by an intact woodland of endemic and native trees and coconut palms. In the evening you can watch the tropical sun go down at the end of the beach and at night the sky glitters with a stunning array of dazzling stars. Beachcombing will result in a haul of exotic shells, and snorkelling off the beach could reveal a school of batfish or even perhaps a baby turtle. In fact, in season (starting November) hawksbills come up on the beach to nest and are often seen. There are two resident naturalists on hand to take guests on informative nature walks to some of the less-visited parts of the island to see the ground-nesting birds such as rare shearwaters and tropicbirds. The fauna is pretty tame and very approachable, enabling really good photographs to be achieved. Within this natural island wilderness has been built a small, exclusive hotel with only four spacious detached villas, a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. A friendly staff of eighteen serves a maximum of ten guests whose every need is very well taken care of, and the chef produces imaginative dishes of mouth - watering variety and flavours . Although not inexpensive, everything is included in the price: all wine, drinks, laundry, on-island excursions and meals are taken care of and, if you stay for eight nights, free transfers by helicopter from Mahe are included. Wet landings are the norm if not taking the ‘chopper’ since a decision was taken not to construct a jetty in order to discourage visitors who may bring unwanted invaders such as rats — a small price to pay to preserve such a wonderful and awe-inspiring natural treasure as Cousine Island. Although it may stretch your budget a little, if there is some flexibility, you would most definitely not regret it. Cousine is marvellous, and our favourite island of the Seychelles – it has to be seen to be appreciated.Please call Alan Godwin on 01803 866965 for more details of Cousine and other Seychelles options. MADAGASCAR - HELEN'S EXPERIENCES AT KIRINDY NATIONAL PARKAs part of my recent recce trip to Madagascar, I flew from the capital, Antananarivo, to the south-western coastal town of Morondava. I was treated to breathtaking views of the majestic baobab forest below and, despite having travelled widely in Madagascar, I knew this unique island had more treats in store.
Tranquil Morondava is home to the fisher folk of the Sakalava tribe and groups of women are often seen walking along the white beach carrying buckets of large fish on their heads as they greet visitors and friends with their wide welcoming smiles. After a relaxing night at a lovely hotel by the sea, I began the journey by 4x4 through an amazing landscape of lakes, villages and the famous Avenue des Baobabs to Kirindy Reserve - also known as the ‘Swiss Forest’ - an area of tropical dry deciduous forest, one of the most threatened habitats in Madagascar. Kirindy boasts the greatest density of primates in the world, with eight species of lemur, six of which are nocturnal. It is also renowned for its rare birds and reptiles and as the only place where the endangered giant jumping rat (vositse) is found. However, my primary goal was to see the strange viverrid predator, the lemur-eating fosa (pronounced ‘foos’): Kirindy offers the best chance to see this elusive, nocturnal cat-like animal. My eagle-eyed local guide helped spot many birds such as Madagascar jacaranda, giant coua, sickle-billed and white-headed vangas, various reptiles such as iguanid lizards, and ‘dancing’Verreaux’s sifaka, seen busily munching young leaves. To overnight in Kirindy, the choice of accommodation is limited to one site where there are simple bungalows, each with a private shower room – a screened area open to the stars, a bucket with water collected from a tank, and pan with which to throw water over yourself. On arrival, I merrily used this facility and was promptly joined by a thirsty group of red-fronted brown lemurs. I offered up my pan of water and after a moment’s timid hesitation, they came down from a tree and, one by one, drank gratefully before bounding off into the forest. The rains were late, and I could see as I took a guided afternoon walk in the forest that the area was in much need. The floor was covered in tinder-dry leaf litter and the leaves on some plants were beginning to wizen. However, the deafening noise from cicadas - the local insect weather forecasters - meant that rain would come within three weeks. Despite the aridity, I was astounded by the number and diversity of animals I saw: as well as lemurs, birds included the white breasted mesite, two colour morphs of the paradise flycatcher, crested and Coquerel’s couas, broadbilled roller, hook-billed vanga and banded kestrel. There were also many reptiles, most ubiquitously the large, spiketailed Oplurus iguanid sunning themselves on tree trunks, but also Zonosaurus skinks and the brightly coloured Phelsuma day geckos. We returned to the bungalows and sat down with some baobab-fruit juice, poring over the digital photos I’d taken and enthusing about our experience that afternoon. After some rest and relaxation we sat down for dinner - and then the rains came. The cicadas got it right, and I could imagine the forest sighing with relief now the wait was finally over. This was real rain – rain which formed small rivers on the ground and which looked like someone was pouring a large bucket of water over the area. It only lasted a short time, setting the pattern for the brief rainy season in this region. The rain stopped and the skies cleared in time for my much anticipated night walk, and my chance to see the fosa. I asked my local guide whether he thought I had a good chance. His reply was ‘If we have lucky’. I kept my fingers crossed. Firstly we headed out with the 4x4 to a road littered with fruit from the trees above – the favourite food of the giant jumping rat. Within a short time the driver had seen something in his headlights. There they were – a pair of strange rodents, looking like a cross between a rabbit, rat and kangaroo. They sat in the road long enough for me to take a quick photo before hopping off into the forest. Revelling in my good fortune, I began a guided walk on the trails. The sounds of the forest filled my ears as we searched the trees and undergrowth for nocturnal animals. Again, I was astounded. Lemurs included fork-marked lemur, Coquerel's dwarf lemur, fat-tailed dwarf lemur, the loud-calling red-tailed sportive lemur, grey mouse lemur and the pygmy mouse lemur – smallest primate in the world and the cutest thing I’ve ever seen. I also saw more giant jumping rats, sleeping birds, chameleons, big-headed gecko, the well camouflaged Uroplatus leaf-tailed gecko, narrow-striped mongoose and much more besides – but alas no fosa. We were now approaching the bungalows and just as the end of the road was in sight, my local guide spotted eye-shine on the road ahead with his torch. There it was – a fosa. We approached stealthily and I felt my jaw drop in awe. It stared at us, unmoving as we approached. Sportive lemurs were calling loudly in the trees above. Was the fosa - weight for weight the most voracious predator on earth - stalking these primates? I will never know. After giving me a chance to appreciate its strange sinewy form, it slinked off into the forest and disappeared. I was ecstatic – beaming from ear to ear as finally I had seen this secretive and infamous predator. Just then, my guide spotted another one. Two in one night! This was indeed a very special night in an exceptional reserve. I slept well that night, contented as could be, and delighted to know that the reserve is supporting such a healthy diversity of wildlife. It has a chequered history of good and bad management: the last owners had exploited the forest for logging and the wild pet trade. Now, due to the recognition of its vital importance for conservation, the national parks authority, ANGAP, has taken control. The reserve is a base for much scientific research to improve our understanding of the rare and endemic flora and fauna it contains, and in the safe hands of ANGAP there is renewed hope that the natural treasures it holds will survive for the continued benefit of visitors and future generations. If you should wish to visit Kirindy, either on a tailor-made tour or by joining our August 2006 Aye-Aye and I Group led by Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust’s Quentin Bloxam, please call Helen on 01803 866965. OUR NEW OFFICE - BY THE RIVER DARTIn June 2005 we celebrated our first anniversary in the new offices at Steamer Quay on the River Dart in Totnes. Compared with our last premises, the current office is light and spacious, with views over the Dart to Baltic Wharf and upstream to town and the old Norman castle in the distance. We have enjoyed a number of visits throughout last year from past and prospective clients, and should welcome any others who would like to meet us face to face and happen to be in the area or wish to journey to Devon. It is always a bonus to meet clients in person. In case that is not possible, here is a photograph of the Reef and Rainforest team, who are always on hand via the telephone or e-mail to handle your future travel arrangements.
GUYANA - SOUTH AMERICA'S BEST KEPT SECRETGuyana isn’t the world’s best known wildlife destination: in fact most people would be hard pressed to point it out on a world map. With only around 2000 tourists a year and scant media attention, it has long been overlooked. That, however, is about to change as the full potential of the country is finally being realised. On a recent recce trip, Jonathan Morris found that the country offered a surprisingly varied landscape, including vast tropical rainforests, sweeping savannah and stunning waterfalls. His notable wildlife encounters included inquisitive giant river otters and the unforgettable calls of howler monkeys, rare giant anteaters, caimans and extremely varied bird life including the large numbers of macaws and the stunning Guyana cock-of-the-rock: it is also one of the best places in the world to see the elusive jaguar. What makes Guyana additionally special is that it is the only English-speaking country in South America, and consequently you really warm to the people you meet, whether chatting with local cowboys, entertaining local school children or putting the world to rights with village elders. Reef and Rainforest Tours are pleased to offer you the chance to be one of the privileged few to explore this spectacular country either on its own or in combination with the beautiful Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Tobago. Please call Jonathan for exciting itinerary ideas on 01803-866 965. Or please call to order the new Guyana brochure.
MADAGASCAR - TO INCREASE ITS RESERVESThe new progressive government of Madagascar has announced that it will more than triple the area of habitat under official protection from 1.7 million hectares to 6 million hectares over the next five years. We at Reef and Rainforest believe strongly that this encouraging development is a direct result of the steady increase in wildlife tourism to Madagascar. It supports our long-held view that the income from small scale, low impact tourism demonstrates the long-term potential benefits of preserving rather than destroying a country’s natural heritage. One such newly protected area is Tsimanampetsotsa, south of Tulear, which has recently been declared a National Park. Its new gazetting now affords official status to a beautiful 15km-long salt lake inhabited by flamingos, and a rare limestone escarpment of pachypodium forest with two thousand year old baobabs, ring tail lemurs and a cave containing blind fish. Another encouraging sign is the recent listing under CITES of some very endangered reptile and amphibian species in an attempt by the new government of President Ravalomanana to limit the damage done by the international exotic pet trade. For many years, the former government seemed to do little to curtail that damaging trade. More still needs to be done, as the dealers simply switch to unprotected species which in turn will become endangered, but it is a good start.We at Reef and Rainforest wish Madagascar every success in the forthcoming battle, and will do our best to assist.
IBERIA - FLY IN CLUB COMFORT AND AVOID MIAMI TO BOOTSpain’s national carrier, Iberia, has convenient routings to Central America which avoid their previous stop at Miami International airport. You can now fly to Costa Rica, Honduras and Panama in two hops: Heathrow to Madrid, then connect direct onwards (with maybe one touchdown), completely avoiding the United States. All those who have endured the inconvenience involved in transiting through Miami or even Houston may well appreciate this new option. Furthermore, Iberia’s Club Class fares to the region are excellent value. So avoid the crush and the cramped seats by flying with Iberia.
PNG'S AMBUA LODGE - A WONDER OF THE WORLD?Ambua Lodge, in the Southern Highlands region of Papua New Guinea, is a winner of the PATA Pacific Heritage Award. The inspired mixture of local architecture, spectacular location and interaction with the natural environment in one of the most remote corners of the Earth, identifies the Lodge as one of the 'must-see' places in the world. It is where the nature lover can enjoy wildlife walks, see as many as 12 species of birds of paradise, traditional vine bridges and the intricate culture of the Huli Wigmen. Ambua can also add convenience to its list of attractions - it now has its own airstrip, just minutes from the lodge. You too can discover just how wondrous Ambua Lodge is on a tailor-made journey with Reef and Rainforest: experience also the beautiful Karawari River and the marine coast of Madang. Or you can visit the last truly wild frontier on a private air safari out of Cairns in Queensland, negating the need to wait at local airports and affording total flexibility on an itinerary of six nights or longer. Call Alan Godwin on 01803-866 965 for more information, including the famous Goroka and Mt Hagen shows, amazingly colourful cultural extravaganzas.
GALAPAGOS - WHALE SHARK SPOTTINGHow predictable are sightings of whale sharks in the Galapagos? Nature is never on tap, but during the peak season of July to October, there is a 90% chance of seeing the largest fish in the sea. The gentle giants can also be spotted less frequently in June and November. Of course, there are multiple other wildlife attractions to be enjoyed both above and below the sea on one of our Galapagos cruises.
Please call Jonathan Morris on 01803 866 965 for a list of dates and boats, as well as details of Ecuador and Galapagos group and tailor-made tours for 2008. Additionally, Jonathan is a mine of information about when to see whale sharks in both Borneo and Belize, as well as other diving attractions.COSTA RICA - FINCA ROSA BLANCA RECOGNISEDOne of the most pleasant small ‘boutique’ hotels in Costa Rica has been awarded a British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow Award. Finca Rosa Blanca is the only hotel in Central America to have five ‘green leaves’ from the Certification of Sustainability in Tourism. It has featured in many of Reef and Rainforest Tours’ itineraries to Costa Rica over the fifteen years we have offered that excellent destination, and we intend to feature it for many more. Its Gaudi-inspired architecture, individually decorated rooms and suites, stunning hillside setting, swimming pool, good food and careful personal management ensure our clients are always very happy to spend their San Jose overnights there. Congratulations!
PERU - AMAZON RAINFOREST CONSERVATION CENTREIt is a central philosophy of Reef and Rainforest Tours that by sending tourists to remote and endangered wildlife areas we give local people an alternative source of income to destructive practices such as logging, hunting and farming and give a financial incentive for people to keep these areas pristine. |
"Everything worked like clockwork, a big thank you to all the team for another excellent Reef and Rainforest tour - is it any wonder we don’t want to use another tour operator!" Dr F W - Bucks
"Two jaguar sightings were the highlight, we also saw very entertaining giant otters, an amazing variety of birdlife, plus caiman, capybara, … and anaconda." Mr & Mrs A W, Cork
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